India... A proper Introduction
A proper introduction to India is required! After leaving the sunny warm shores of Tanzania, we arrived in a wintery, cold, dull Delhi. Trevor met us a the aiport with a lift which was handy and we went to his hostel to stay for the night. Our first impressions of India (apart from the arctic weather) was mixed. Extremelly dirty, traffic everywhere, people drive everywhere (not using lanes)touts in your face. But anyway... we arrived in Parangaj, the main bazaar in Delhi and also the backpacker area. It was crazy. cows, people, touts, everywhere. What an introduction I thought. We stayed in a crap backpacker hotel and tried to organise our swift exit out of Delhi. The following day we arranged a train to Varanasi (center of the world for the hindu religion). Our train was at 9.30pm, however when we got there the train had been delayed until 2.30am, ahh we can manage that, they had a little clean cafe, decent food and warm. We entertained ourselves with a curry (or 2) and a competitive game of monopoly (travel monopoly...what a great Christmas present for Emma). Soon it was 2am... time to get the train. We waited at the platform and a train arrived...great we thought! However, disaster occurred - the train had to go get "cleaned" and it would not leave until 7am. In the freezing conditions of the platform of Old Delhi train station we bedded down. It wasn't long until we noticed the swarm of rats hovering around us... A quote from Emma - "I will never complain about the DART again". We will wait and see! We actually did leave on the stroke of 7am, and arrived in Varanasi at 4am the following evening.
Varanasi was one of the most interesting, crazy and I don't know how to describe it, place I have ever been. Varanasi is situated on the banks of the holy ganges water, the mecca for hindu religion. Many come to die here and get cremated in public on the banks of the ganges. Our cheap as chips hostel was located right beside the burning ghats (where the bodies were cremated) and smoke filled the surrounding area. A strange feeling walking through smoke that is coming from a burning body. Our first day was rather strange, we would be walking down the street and a possession of people would come running through the 2meter wide streets carrying a dead body wraped various leaves and cloth. From here the body is taken to the burning ghat where it is burned and the ashes sprinkled in the ganges. Interestingly, if you are under 18, pregnant, a holy man, died from the bite of a cobra or died from leprosy you are thrown straight into the ganges, wrapped in banana leaf and a stone tied to your ankles. That is why sometime you can see a dead body floating in the river. We did two boat rides, one at dawn and one at dusk. Both very interesting as you get to step away from the madness of the street and have a look at the ghats from a distance.
India's poverty was obvious in Varanasi, with dead bodies paving the streets. Every morning, at 6am, a person comes around the streets to collect the dead bodies... only in India!!
Overall, we really enjoyed Varanasi, it was so in your face but a very special place all the same. It is very hard not to get caught up in all the madness that goes on around you. Also, we had some great food there... cauliflower curry... Yum Yum!!
We had to make a decision of where we wanted to go next. Trevor had 5 weeks from then so we wanted to do something that he'd enjoy. Originally we had planned to go to Nepal trekking etc but we heard that the weather was freezing. Trekking would be no fun in that weather so as all good pale skinned paddy's would do in such times....head for the desert. We decided to do a 4 week trip around Rajasthan, the desert state of India that borders Pakistan. We braved the trains again and did a 18 hour train ride from Varanasi to Jaipur - the pink city (very smooth - no complaints at all).
At first, I loved Jaipur, it was a bid more modern than Varanasi, had some good shopping and we got an OK place to stay. Emma shopped her heart out, buying lots of semi-precious stones and jewelery. Interestingly, both of us got stylish sunglasses with our prescription in them - something you cannot get at home. Total cost was 30euro each - good buy! We also found a great "shabby sheek" restaurant in the old city which served up the most amazing curries and nan bread, We also got to watch the chef in action - very enjoyable.
However, Jaipur eventually got very irritating. Touts lined the streets, giving you hassle on every street corner. It all got a bit much and it was time to head rural - to Bundi, 5 hours south of Jaipur.
What a surprise Bundi was - not a tout in sight! A beautiful town on a small but handsome lake where you get get cheap good food and read your book in peace. Bundi in a little way reminded me of Guatemala/Chiapas (Mexico) with its small winding streets and colonial buildings. Mountains surrounded the town and perched high on one overlooking the town was a majestic palace. The views were superb from the top. This was the India I was looking for.
Next stop was Udaipur - a 7hour bumpy overnight bus journey. However, every bump was worthwhile! Udaipur was the setting for the great Bond movie - Octopussy! Every hotel pays a nightly homage to this peace of Hollywood greatness (not so great) with it being shown in every hotel/guest house. The place itself was stunning, the down sitting on the banks of a 3km by 4km lake, with two islands in it. One the Lake Palace Hotel. The hotel, originally a palace of the Marahaj, is thought to have inspired the architect of the Taj Mahal. Nowadays, it is a hotel, and at around 700euro a night for a cheap room - a bargain! the second island has been converted into another hotel/restaurant - the sight where Liz Hurley had her wedding reception a number of years ago.
Hassle was minimal here, chilling out was maximal. What a great place. We fond the most adorable roof top terrace called dream heaven (it really stood up to its name) - a great spot for a beer, stunning views of the lake and sunset. The clock was ticking and we had to move on.
Another 8 hour bus journey through the desert brought us to Jodphur - the blue city. A relatively large city, and most building painting blue, has nothing really going for it apart from the fort, perched high on a rocky hill over-looking the city. This fort put the palace in Bundi to shame. Very hard to describe other that simply beautiful. The views from the top were stunning and you could see far into the desert. The second best thing about Jodphur is the tailor. I got a suit made for the grand fee of 80 euro, not much for a suit that is made to your exact requirements.
Thats a bit of a rushed up-date on India. It is very hard to describe (as I keep saying), could write pages on each of the places we've been and on people we met along the way, but I really do not know how to put it into words.
There is a lack of pictures here, as when I hook my camera in the computer here I get a nasty electric shock and I'm also afraid of what that will do to my camera, but I promise, I will but pictures up soon.
We're off to a camel festival and a tash growing competition this evening, which should be interesting. Chao...
Varanasi was one of the most interesting, crazy and I don't know how to describe it, place I have ever been. Varanasi is situated on the banks of the holy ganges water, the mecca for hindu religion. Many come to die here and get cremated in public on the banks of the ganges. Our cheap as chips hostel was located right beside the burning ghats (where the bodies were cremated) and smoke filled the surrounding area. A strange feeling walking through smoke that is coming from a burning body. Our first day was rather strange, we would be walking down the street and a possession of people would come running through the 2meter wide streets carrying a dead body wraped various leaves and cloth. From here the body is taken to the burning ghat where it is burned and the ashes sprinkled in the ganges. Interestingly, if you are under 18, pregnant, a holy man, died from the bite of a cobra or died from leprosy you are thrown straight into the ganges, wrapped in banana leaf and a stone tied to your ankles. That is why sometime you can see a dead body floating in the river. We did two boat rides, one at dawn and one at dusk. Both very interesting as you get to step away from the madness of the street and have a look at the ghats from a distance.
India's poverty was obvious in Varanasi, with dead bodies paving the streets. Every morning, at 6am, a person comes around the streets to collect the dead bodies... only in India!!
Overall, we really enjoyed Varanasi, it was so in your face but a very special place all the same. It is very hard not to get caught up in all the madness that goes on around you. Also, we had some great food there... cauliflower curry... Yum Yum!!
We had to make a decision of where we wanted to go next. Trevor had 5 weeks from then so we wanted to do something that he'd enjoy. Originally we had planned to go to Nepal trekking etc but we heard that the weather was freezing. Trekking would be no fun in that weather so as all good pale skinned paddy's would do in such times....head for the desert. We decided to do a 4 week trip around Rajasthan, the desert state of India that borders Pakistan. We braved the trains again and did a 18 hour train ride from Varanasi to Jaipur - the pink city (very smooth - no complaints at all).
At first, I loved Jaipur, it was a bid more modern than Varanasi, had some good shopping and we got an OK place to stay. Emma shopped her heart out, buying lots of semi-precious stones and jewelery. Interestingly, both of us got stylish sunglasses with our prescription in them - something you cannot get at home. Total cost was 30euro each - good buy! We also found a great "shabby sheek" restaurant in the old city which served up the most amazing curries and nan bread, We also got to watch the chef in action - very enjoyable.
However, Jaipur eventually got very irritating. Touts lined the streets, giving you hassle on every street corner. It all got a bit much and it was time to head rural - to Bundi, 5 hours south of Jaipur.
What a surprise Bundi was - not a tout in sight! A beautiful town on a small but handsome lake where you get get cheap good food and read your book in peace. Bundi in a little way reminded me of Guatemala/Chiapas (Mexico) with its small winding streets and colonial buildings. Mountains surrounded the town and perched high on one overlooking the town was a majestic palace. The views were superb from the top. This was the India I was looking for.
Next stop was Udaipur - a 7hour bumpy overnight bus journey. However, every bump was worthwhile! Udaipur was the setting for the great Bond movie - Octopussy! Every hotel pays a nightly homage to this peace of Hollywood greatness (not so great) with it being shown in every hotel/guest house. The place itself was stunning, the down sitting on the banks of a 3km by 4km lake, with two islands in it. One the Lake Palace Hotel. The hotel, originally a palace of the Marahaj, is thought to have inspired the architect of the Taj Mahal. Nowadays, it is a hotel, and at around 700euro a night for a cheap room - a bargain! the second island has been converted into another hotel/restaurant - the sight where Liz Hurley had her wedding reception a number of years ago.
Hassle was minimal here, chilling out was maximal. What a great place. We fond the most adorable roof top terrace called dream heaven (it really stood up to its name) - a great spot for a beer, stunning views of the lake and sunset. The clock was ticking and we had to move on.
Another 8 hour bus journey through the desert brought us to Jodphur - the blue city. A relatively large city, and most building painting blue, has nothing really going for it apart from the fort, perched high on a rocky hill over-looking the city. This fort put the palace in Bundi to shame. Very hard to describe other that simply beautiful. The views from the top were stunning and you could see far into the desert. The second best thing about Jodphur is the tailor. I got a suit made for the grand fee of 80 euro, not much for a suit that is made to your exact requirements.
Thats a bit of a rushed up-date on India. It is very hard to describe (as I keep saying), could write pages on each of the places we've been and on people we met along the way, but I really do not know how to put it into words.
There is a lack of pictures here, as when I hook my camera in the computer here I get a nasty electric shock and I'm also afraid of what that will do to my camera, but I promise, I will but pictures up soon.
We're off to a camel festival and a tash growing competition this evening, which should be interesting. Chao...
posted by Mark Sherlock at
8:23 a.m.
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